Turns out the woman from the port called the wrong people - it is a boat to somewhere else which is leaving.
Back to the original plan of waiting around to 2300 tonight to see if there is a crossing, whereupon we will haven another round of world-class hurryupandwait.
All this means that we haven to skip what was planned four the first few days in Turkmenistan, we just have to push and get to Ashgabat as quickly as we can. Without the truck. Time for some local transport - time to be thankful for the guide we have in Turkmenistan to help us.
This does mean that I've had a lot of time to read today - Rivers of London, for those interested. A good read.